Feb 21, Saturday, Chobe Bakwana Lodge

Today we started out early with a game drive, but we went to another part of the park.  We ended up at our picnic site and a trip to see the last of the lion's elephant kill.  Yesterday the vultures were getting close, but the lions would chase them away as soon as they got too near.  Today it was feast for the vultures.  You could see one leg and some skin, but the bulk of the sorry elephant was almost gone.  We saw a glimpse of an eland, a type of antelope found in Chobe Park, but elusive.  We also saw a couple sable antelopes.  The usual and always fascinating elephants, impala, giraffe and baboons were around enough to keep us awake.

Kasane town.

Crocodile on the Chobe river

vultures

Sable

See that long neck?

Flowering teak tree

After lunch OP, one of the managers, talked to us about Botswana, history, government, and how proud they are of their country.  We can tell this area is more prosperous than the other areas of the countries we saw.  There is not much unemployment.  Diamonds keeps the country going.  They are getting a big new bridge.  Nice police department buildings.  People seem happy and well dressed.  they got their independence in 1968 and have had free elections, but they like the first President and his son is coming up for election next time.  School and health care are free.

Our evening entertainment started with a Chobe river cruise safari.  We saw the banks of the river where we had been driving in our safari vehicle, but from the river view.  There were lots of hippos of course, and a few Cape buffalo among the elephants.  Impala were on the shore, as were wart hogs and baboons.  This vantage had us seeing several crocodiles basking on the shore.  Also, some interesting birds appeared such as the giant kingfisher, the black wing plover, the African darter, the wide belly cormorant and the quilea, which are small birds that fly in large graceful swinging groups.  We watched an elephant leisurely drinking in the river, and some dusting themselves after bathing. We even saw another new antelope, the puku, as well as the water buck, both of whom enjoy the river.

The last sunset in Africa was emotional for me.  There is nothing like what we have experienced.  The vastness of the sky, the savana landscape - grasses, small bushes, small trees, an occasional large tree, trees that have been pruned to the height of a giraffe, dead trees that elephant have eventually killed, leaving skeletons that will eventually fall and be useful for a perch for a leopard.  Smoke from home wood cooking fires, wispy curled clouds, starlit skies at night.  The aroma of elephant dung, wild basil, fields of grass, heat on the sand and red iron rich soil.

After our cruise we were greeted by the staff who performed some traditional African songs and dances.  The women had rattles on their legs which made a nice sound to their hypnotic beat and energetic dancing. 

Feb 20, Friday, Chobe National Park, Chobe Bakwana Lodge

Thompson got us up at 4:45 so we could be the first vehicle into the park this am to maybe see the lion cubs and the male lion before they went into the bushes.

Indeed we were first.  The hippos were making their way back from grazing into the shallow pools.  A way into the park we discovered a group of batchelor impalas.  But they were acting strangely.  They were all huffing out of their noses, which is a sign of distress.  They were all looking in the same direction.  Our guide knew something was up.  We waited and looked all around to see what the threat might be.  After awhile the guide decided it was a false alarm.  The next vehicle after us, however, saw the leopard charge out of the bushes and pounce on one of the hapless creatures and carried him off just like that.  We saw the leopard kill, we just don't know which one he was.

We came across a large troop of baboons enjoying the yellow fruits from the vines on the trees.  Some younsters were playing king of the mountain on a signpost.  One was trying to get to the top and used the one there's tail to swing around it.  We had a great time watching their antics.  I uploaded the video to Youtube because it was really fun to watch.

We saw a longtail bird which has this really long black tail on the male but only when he wants to find a mate.  It was three times as long as he.  We also saw a swamp boubou bird.  Next, Thompson spied a monitor lizard, but it took several minutes for anyone else to catch a glimpse even though it never moved.  It would have been about 3 feet long.

We finally saw a kudu by himself.  He had a bird on his back picking off the insects.

We arrived at the lion kill site and there were two vehicles there!  There were now 6 lions feeding on the juvenile elephant.  The male lion was watching under a tree.  He had black hair behind his main mane of gold.  There was a younger male nearby who had a peach fuzz mane starting.  Thompson said he would be kicked out of the pride when he fully matured.  The whole pride comprised of 10 adults.  There were 4 cubs in the brush but we never saw them. 

We continued on the road further than last night and within one sweep of the head saw elephants, impala, warthogs and baboons.

  There were giraffes in the distance. 

Large groups of impala seemed to be around every corner.  Their coats are shiny and clean and the markings attractive.  Even though they are the most ubiquitous animals, I always enjoy seeing them and how they prance/run.

On our evening safari we saw much the same, watching elephants with their young, sometimes even a two month old.  We also saw a lone bull in must.  He was a sorry sight, trumpeting at us, leaking sperm, and weeping from his temporal gland.  The hippos are also fun to watch especially when they are wandering around or peeking out of the water and snorting.  Baboons seem to play around, up trees, wandering all over the place.  There is usually a baby or two on the mama's back or under her belly holding on for dear life.  Warthogs snort around, wag their tufted tails in the air as they seem to trot.  We always laugh when we see them.  The vast savannah is beautiful. 

 This time of year it is green with grass and leaves.  It is the slow season because it is the rainy season.  Your trip can be totally reuined by a few days of rain.  Thompson said he had one group that had rain 13 of 17 days so that they could only do one activity a day.  The green grass and leafy trees make sighting animals hard to do, especially elusive, lone animals like leopards and cheetahs.

Feb 19, Thursday, Chobe National Park, Botswana

After breakfast we headed out by boat to Kasane town.  It is the main trading area for Impalila Island.  We transferred to the Chobe Bakwena Lodge in the Chobe National Park.  It is one of the largest national parks in Botswana at 4,500 square miles.  More than 75,000 elephants call this home.  This leg of our journey is our last chance for game viewing and our last stop before we start our journey in India.

The women of the lodge welcomed us with singing and dancing.  We had a quick briefing and got to go to our round thatched roof huts, the nicest on our trip.  We even have an outdoor rain shower.  We have a view of the Chobe river right out our door.

After lunch and a break we headed out on our first game drive.  This vehicle is the latest Toyota Landcruiser - brand new.  We even had seat belts.  

Cubs after their meal

After a 20 minute drive to the Chobe National Park, the 2nd largest park in Botswana, we headed for the river trail.  The animals come to drink in the evening and are all in this area.  We slowly made our way, seeing an African Harrier-hawk, a sacred ibis, and a kori bustard, the largest bird that flies.  As we drove we passed other vehicles coming back.  We were told that a pride of lions had made a kill further along the road.  It was a juvenile elephant.  This was our opportunity to see all the lions together, and since they have full bellies, we don't have to worry about approaching them.  This news meant that we didn't want to stop and look at every bird or hippo.  We were anxious to see the cats.

However we soon saw a hilarious site.  A hippo was scratching his back in the mud, all four feet in the air.  He looked like a very happy hippo.

Soon after we saw a galloping dazzle of zebras.  Usually they are just wandering around swishing their tails and nudging each other looking bored.  Then we saw a group of male impala all alert, looking in the direction where the zebras were coming.  Then ahead was a family of elephants, the females all in a circle looking out, protecting their young in the center.  Something was up.  We slowly approached, looking all around to see what had alerted the animals.  In the distance, a cheetah crossed the road and went off into the bushes.  But we all got a glimpse, even if it wasn't a photo.

We finally came across the lion kill, between the dirt road and the river.  There were several other vehicles there all vying for spots.  Our guide was able to maneuver to some good viewing spots and also spied the cubs under bushes on the other side of the road.  There were three lions having their meal.  Other lions were almost passed out on the side of the road.  Their bellies were very full.  Every once in awhile another lion would move closer and take her place at the table.  The kill happened last night. 

 Thompson said they would probably feed for three days, then let the other scavenger animals move in and the vultures and other carrion birds which were perched in the trees nearby.  Everything is eventually eaten.  We saw a Cape Buffalo carcass along the road.  All but the skull and some dry, tough hide, were left.

about ready to get some minerals from the ground, but very awkward for him.